The Gilgit Baltistan of Pakistn

                    

Gilgit Baltistan is the paradise of beauty and adventurism 

Gilgit Baltistan formerly known as the Northern Areas, is the northernmost administrative territory of Pakistan. It borders Azad Kashmir to the south, the province of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa to the west, the Wakhan Corridor of Afghanistan to the north, Xinjiang, China, to the east and northeast and Jammu and Kashmir to the southeast.

The territory of present day Gilgit Baltistan became a separate administrative unit in 1970 under the name, Northern Areas. It was formed by the amalgamation of the former Gilgit Agency, the Baltistan District and several small former princely states, the larger of which being Hunza Nagar. In 2009, it was granted limited autonomy and renamed to Gilgit Baltistan via the Self Governance Order signed by Pakistan President Asif Ali Zardari, which also aimed to empower the people of Gilgit Baltistan. However, scholars state that the real power rests with the governor and not with the chief minister or elected assembly. The Pakistan government has rejected Gilgit Baltistani calls for integration with Pakistan on the grounds that it would jeopardise its demands for the whole Kashmir issue to be resolved according to UN resolutions. Gilgit Baltistan covers an area of over 72,971 km² (28,174 sq mi) and is highly mountainous. It had an estimated population of 1,800,000 in 2015. Its capital city is Gilgit (population 216,760 est). Gilgit Baltistan is home to five of the, eight thousanders and to more than fifty peaks above 7,000 metres (23,000 ft). Three of the world's longest glaciers outside the polar regions are found in Gilgit Baltistan. Tourism is mostly in trekking and mountaineering, and this industry is growing in importance.

                                               

District Astore of Gilgit Baltistan

Astore is one of the nine districts of the Gilgit Baltistan, Pakistan. The district contains the Astore Valley and is bounded to the west by Diamer District, from which it was separated in 2004, to the north by Gilgit District, to the east by Skardu District and to the south by Khyber Pakhtunkhwa and Neelum District of Azad Kashmir. According to the 1998 Census of Pakistan the population was 71,666 and this district is the recently established district headquarters at Gilgit Baltistan with its district headquarters at Eidgah. The Astore Valley is comprised of numerous valleys and villages where the prominent ones are Rama, Gorikot, Rehmanpur, Rattu. Bunji, Dashkin and Chilim, among others. Of particular note in the District are Parbat (Rupal Face) and Rama Lake.

                                            

Diamer District of Gilgit Baltistan

The Diamer District is the gateway to the Gilgit Baltistan if driving from Islamabad via the Karkorum Highway or Kaghan Valley through Babusar or Butogah passes. The area has been important since the pre-historic period and numerous traces of ancient rock carvings are found in different shapes, especially rock inscribed pictures and writings which are spread all around the region. The important places in Diamer District are Tangir, Darel, Chiias, Bunar Das, Gonar Farm and Raikot. Of particular note in this District are Nanga Parbat (8,125m) Raikot Face and Fairy Meadows, some of the most picturesque places in the world and this is the district, in which the Karakoram Highway enters that territory from the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, the capital of the district is Chilas. Diamer District is bounded by Astore District in the east, by the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa in the southwest, separated by the Babusar Pass or Babusar Top, Neelum District of Azad Kashmir in the south, the Ghizer District in the north and northwest, and the Gilgit District in the north and northeast.

Gilgit District of Gilgit Baltistan

Gilgit strategically the most important region in the Karakorams and the trade centre of the region for centuries, is the capital town and administrative centre of the Federally Administered Gilgit Baltistan. The area is watered by the Ghizer Gilgit, Hunza and Indus rivers and several of their tributaries and the district includes Gilgit town, Bagrot Valley, Juglot, Danyore, Naltar, and Nomal. The highest peak in the district is Distaghil Sar (7,885m) which is the seventh highest peak in Pakistan and 19th highest on earth. Gilgit was an important city on the Silk Road through which religions were spread to and from the region. At one time the region was under the influence of Buddhism and a large number of Buddhist texts have been discovered at various places. A valuable account of the region is found from the writings of Fa Hsien and Hsuan Tsang, ancient travelers along the Silk Road. There has been found in Dardic influence as well. Gilgit was ruled for centuries by the local Trakhane Dynasty which came to an end in 1810 and was followed by the rule of Sikhs and the British before declaring independence in 1947 and becoming part of Pakistan in 1948. Of particular note in this district are Naltar, 35 km from Gilgit and a picturesque grassland surrounded by high peaks with accessible glacial lakes and in the winter there is a private ski resort run under the auspices of the Pakistan Air Force and for military personnel only. Near to Gilgit there is the Kargah Buddha, a rock wall carved Buddha dating back to the 8th century AD while a little further on is the ruins of a Buddhist monastery and stupa.

Ghizer District of Gilgit Baltistan

This region west of Gilgit has been ruled by various native Rajas of Yasin and Punial and later divided between the Mehthar of Chitral and the Maharaja of Kashmir. After 1948, the area became a part of the NAs as a district. The major places are Punial which is a former small kingdom and Sherqilla which has a wood carved mosque and 150 year old watchtower. Fishing is a different activity in the villages. Ghizer is a crossroads between Gilgit and Chitral and also to China, Tajikistan via Qurumber pass through Ishkomen or Darkut Yasin, which are connected via Shandur Pass. Ghizer is a multi-ethnic district and three major languages are spoken; shina, khowar and Burushaski. There are also Wakhi speakers in Ishkoman and some Tajiks. Further west, on the main road from Gilgit to Chitral, is the important town of Gahkuch and the administrative centre for the district. Yasin is a green and picturesque region. The local inhabitants are mainly Ismailis. The Ishkoman valley is another delightful region in Ghizer. Phander is one of the most interesting places in the district. It is well connected by a metalled road to Gilgit. A leisure day at Phander to fishing in the lake is ideal for holiday makers. ShandurPass, the bordering plateau between Gilgit and Chitral is more famous for its annual polo tournament and gala. It offers superb panorama as the vast plateau fills with alpine flowers and the lake on the pass makes it more picturesque.

Hunza /Nagar District of Gilgit Baltistan

This is the new district formed in the Gilgit Baltistan comprising of the valleys of Hunza and Nagar. Hunza Nagar District was the seventh district of Gilgit Baltistan of Pakistan. The district now has been divided into two districts of Hunza and Nagar. Hunza was a former princely state for about 900 years which came to an end in 1974. Hunza valley is the prime attraction for tourists as the spectacular scenery of the surrounding mountains is overwhelming. A view of four 7,000 m high peaks, like Rakaposhi, Diran, Golden and Ultar, from diverse points of Hunza makes it unique. The valley is famous for its delicious fruits, terraced fields, and also for its changing colours in various seasons. Hunza is a tourist friendly region. The present literacy rate of the valley is above 90%. Of particular interest, in this district are: Baltit Fort, a 700 years old building, made of mud, rocks and wood, is impressive and has been recently renovated and turned into a heritage museum. A walk through the villages with terraced fields is a pleasant experience. The bazaar of Karimabad is colorful and the main items of interest include local handicrafts, souvenirs, hand woven rugs, embroidered caps, shawls, hand woven cloth known as paffu and gemstones. In the Upper Hunza or Gojal area, the towering mountain land of Khunjerab with its crest at 4,743 m is a wide snow plateau and serves as the border between Pakistan and China. The region beyond Dhee is declared at Khunjerab National Park. While driving through the park one can see grazing wild asses, yaks, marmots and ibex. The sight of Marco Polo sheep and urial is rare. Snow leopard is also found, but the sighting is occasional. There is a Tourist Facilitation Centre at Zero Point, Khunjerab Pass. Nagar has been in a state of equal status and importance as that of Hunza. Although the valley is spread in a vast region, however the main village of Nagar is just opposite to Karimabad, across the Hunza River. Bar, Jaffarabad, Husanabad, Sikandarabad, Nilt and Ghulmit are the major villages in Nagar. Presently there is no proper accommodation facility available, apart from a nice secluded place in Minapin village. Rakaposhi Trekking options include Rakaposhi Base Camp, Rush Lake and Rush Peak routes, while the most notable is Hisper Pass, connecting the region with Baltistan.

Skardu District of Gilgit Baltistan

It is bounded on the southeast by Kargil district in the Indian Administered Jammu and Kashmir, on the east by Ghanche District, on the northeast by Xinjiang (China), on the south by Baramulla and Kargil District, on the west by district Astore and on the north by Gilgit District and Skardu town is located near the confluence of Shigar and Indus rivers, and is watered by the stream flowing down the Sadpara Lake. Despite the fact that Skardu is the base camp for the routes to some of the world's highest peaks, low altitude mountains surround the town. The old bazaar has a few mountaineering equipment, second hand, shops and others provide basic provisions required by trekking and climbing parties. Of particular interest in this district are Khorpocho Fort, Manthal Rock, Buddhist carving, Sadpara and Kachura Lakes, including the upscale resort of Shangrila while so 3 full day excursions are a visit to Deosai Plains, the second highest plateau in the world, and the Shigar valley with an impressive renovated fort and fruit orchards.

Ghanche District of Gilgit Baltistan

Ghanche has two major divisions, Khaplu and Mc'herbrum. Hushe, under the shadow of Masherbrum Peak, is the gateway to various important peaks and glaciers. The capital of Ghanche District is Khaplu. This region is the coldest place within Pakistan also called the "Third Pole" with temperatures reaching below -20 °C in the winter. Khaplu Valley and Hushe Valley form the gateway for the great Baltoro Muztagh, the subrange of Karakoram that includes the mighty peaks of K2 (8,611 m), Broad Peak (8,047 m), Gasherbrums (8,000+ m) and Masherbrum (7,821 m), all of which are included in the Skardu District. A 102km drives mostly along the Shyok river take to Khaplu, the district headquarters of Ghanche. Khaplu Palace and Chaqchan Mosque are the interesting places to visit. The palace was the summer residence of the ex-ruler’s family. The mosque was built around 1500 AC and boasts to be the oldest mosque in Ba iitan. The building shows Buddhist influence and Tibetan architecture. Ghondoghoro Pass at 5,650 m is one of the most popular and challenging trekking routes in the world. Other places to trek to with relative ease are the base camp of Masherburm Peak and Thalle La.

History of Gilgit Baltistan

Between 399 and 414, the Chinese Buddhist pilgrim Faxian, Fahsien, visited Gilgit Baltistan, while in the 6th century Somana Palola, greater Gilgit Chilas, was ruled by an unknown king. Between 627 and 645: The Chinese Buddhist pilgrim Xuanzang, Hsüantsang, travelled through this region. From 644 to 655, 671: Navasurendrādityanandi was King of Palola. In 706/707, Jayama Ṅgalavikramādityanandi became the King of Palola. It is said that in the year 717, a delegation of a ruler of great Palola, named Sufushelijilini according to the transcription of Chinese characters, reached the Chinese imperial court. In 719, Sufushelijilini, King of Palola, sent a second delegation to the Chinese Imperial Court. At least in 719/720 Ladakh was part of the Tibetan Empire. About 720 Buddhism is practiced in Baltistan and Sanskrit was the written language. It is unknown if Baltistan temporarily belonged at that time to Palolo.720: Delegation of Soulintoiche, Surendrāditya, King of Palola, to the Chinese imperial court. The Emperor gives the ruler of Cashmere the title of "King of Cashmere".At least 721/722: Baltistan is part of the Tibetan Empire. 721/722: The conquest of Little Palola or Bruzha by the Tibetan army fails. Mochingmang is King of Palola. With 723 727/28: The Korean Buddhist pilgrim Hyecho  reached Palola. In 737 / 738 Tibetan troops, under the leadership of Minister SKyesbzang ldongtsab conquer Little Palola. 740/41: The Tibetan Princess Khrimalod  was sent as a bride of Sushihlichi, the ruler  of Little Palola. 747: Reconquest of Palola by a Chinese army under the leadership of the ethnic Korean commander Gao Xianzhi, Kao Hsienchih. 753: Conquest of Great Palola by a Chinese army under the military Governor Feng Changqing until 755 due to the An Lushan rebellion the Chinese lost its supremacy in Central Asia and in the regions around Gilgit Baltistan. Gilgit Baltistan was ruled by many local rulers amongst them Maopons of Skardu and Rajas of Hunza were famous. The Maqpons of Skardu unified Gilgit baltistan with chitral, ladakh especially in the era of Ali Sher Khan Anchan who had a friendly relation with the Mughal court. Anchan reign brought prosperity in art, sport, and variety in architecture He introduce polo in gilgit region and in chitral he sent a group of musicians in Delhi to learn Indian music and due relation with Mughals The Mughal architecture influenced architecture of the region as well. After the defeat of the Sikhs in the first Anglo Sikh war, it became a part of the princely state with the name Jammu and Kashmir in 1846 under the rule of the Dogras who ruled the region more than a century. It remained so till a rebellion, organized by commander Major William Brown of the Gilgit Scouts mutinied and overthrew Ghansara Singh, the Governor administering the region on behalf of the Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir on 1 November 1947. The provisional government lasted 16 days. Scholar Yaqoob Khan Bangash states that the people of Gilgit as well as those of Chilas, Koh Ghizer, Ishkoman, Yasin, Punial, Hunza and Nagar joined Pakistan by choice. After taking control of Gilgit, Gilgit Scouts along with Azad irregulars moved towards Baltistan and Ladakh and captured Skardu in May 1948. They successfully blocked the Indian reinforcements and subsequently captured Dras and Kargill as well, cutting off the Indian communications to Leh in Ladakh. Indian forces mounted an offensive in Autumn 1948 and recaptured all of Kargil district. Baltistan region, however, came under Gilgit control. On 1 January 1948, India took the issue of Jammu and Kashmir to the United Nations Security Council. In April 1948, the Council passed a resolution calling for Pakistan to withdraw from all of Jammu and Kashmir and India to reduce its forces to the minimum level, following which a plebiscite would be held to ascertain the people's wishes. However, no withdrawal was ever carried out. India insisting that Pakistan had to withdraw first and Pakistan contending that there was no guarantee that India would withdraw afterwards. Gilgit Baltastan and a western portion of the state called Azad Jammu and Kashmir  have remained under the control of Pakistan since then.

Government Administrative divisions

The territory of present day Gilgit Baltistan became a separate administrative unit in 1970 under the name "Northern Areas". It was formed by the amalgamation of the former Gilgit Agency, the Baltistan District of the Ladakh Wazarat, and the hill states of Hunza and Nagar. It presently consists of nine districts, has a population approaching one million, an area of approximately 28,000 square miles (73,000 km2), and shares borders with Pakistan, China, Afghanistan, and India. In 1993, an attempt was made by the High Court of Azad Jammu and Kashmir to annex Gilgit Baltistan but was quashed by the Supreme Court of Pakistan after protests by the locals of Gilgit Baltistan, who feared domination by the Kashmiris. Government of Pakistan abolished State Subject Rule in Gilgit Baltistan in 1974, which resulted in demographic changes in the territory. While administratively controlled by Pakistan since the First Kashmir War, Gilgit Baltistan has never been formally integrated into the Pakistani state and does not participate in Pakistan's constitutional political affairs. On 29 August 2009, the Gilgit Baltistan Empowerment and Self Governance Order 2009, was passed by the Pakistani Cabinet and later signed by the then President of Pakistan Asif Ali Zardari. The order granted self rule to the people of Gilgit Baltistan, by creating, among other things, an elected Gilgit Baltistan Legislative Assembly and Gilgit Baltistan Council. Gilgit Baltistan thus gained a de facto province like status without constitutionally becoming part of Pakistan.  Gilgit Baltistan is administratively divided into three divisions which, in turn, are divided into ten districts, consisting of the four Baltistan districts of Skardu, Shigar, Kharmang, and Ghanche, and the six Gilgit districts of Gilgit, Ghizer, Diamer, Astore, Hunza and Nagar, of which Astore and Diamer are part of Diamer Division. The principal administrative centers are the towns of Gilgit and Skardu. Combined population of Skardu, Shigar and Kharmang Districts. Shigar and Kharmang Districts were carved out of Skardu District after 1998. The estimated population of Gilgit Baltistan was about 1.8 million in 2015 and the overall population growth rate between 1998 and 2011 was 63.1% making it 4.85% annually and Gilgit Baltistan is the famous as northern area of Pakistan and this area is full of natural beauty like valleys, lakes and mountain areas and these sites are visited by tourists around glob every year.